I learnt a valuable lesson last weekend. The lesson that even the smallest kayak journey should be planned and you should always have the right kayak accessories and kit with you regardless of how far you intend to paddle or how experienced you may be. There is no room for complacency especially when going to unknown territories.
At around 3pm on a beautiful sunny Saturday afternoon my good friend Joel suggested we go for a quick paddle around our local marina where our Norman cruiser is moored. Although still hung over from a 40th Birthday celebration the night before I wanted to test out my new Moll fibreglass kayak paddles and also a new waterproof camera I had just purchased so I agreed to have the gentlest of paddles around the Marina.
We did have two inflatable kayaks on the boat but could not be bothered to pump them up for such a short trip so decided to use the Sundance Perception kayaks which luckily had been left on the boat from a previous trip.
In no time at all we were on the water and the cleansing feeling of being out paddling was doing my hangover the world of good. As we were only paddling around the marina I didn’t have many kayak accessories with me, just my PDF, mobile phone, waterproof camera and paddles.
We decided to venture along The Twizzle a tidal channel running along the south of Horsey Island. I had pretty much shaken off my hangover and was delighted how my new paddles were performing. I had paddled along this route once before and knew a nice beach head only a ten or fifteen minute paddle where we could stop and have a cuppa.
We paddled on and after a short time we had pulled onto the small beach just next to a jetty. It was an absolutely gorgeous summer evening and the sun kissed water was simply stunning. The Walton Backwater is extremely beautiful and is home to many migratory and rare birds.
After landing the kayaks we climbed a small sea wall that ran along the beach in order to find a nice spot to have a drink and soak up the evening sun. After what seemed like a short time but upon reflection was probably nearly an hour we decided it was time to be heading back.
As we went back over the wall we could see the tide was well on its way out. Fortunately their was a jetty running into the channel (we have since discovered the jetty is in fact the Island Road which floods when the time comes in) so we walked along the jetty until we thought it would be deep enough to put in.
We put in when there were a few inches of water and began bumping along in our kayak seats in order to get into deeper water. After about twenty yards of bumping our perception kayaks along we were still not afloat and after another fifty yards of bumping and digging our paddles in the mud we were still not afloat.
It then occurred to us that we may be on a huge sand bank which may go on for hundreds of yards. If we carried on trying to bump our boats along we would soon become exhausted and end up being stuck in the clay mud that surrounds Horsey Island. Whilst the Walton Backwaters are an extremely beautiful location they can be very deceptive and due to the many creeks and sand banks they are terribly difficult to navigate.
I made a decision to get out of my boat and push us back to the Island in order that we could walk along on hard ground and try and get into deeper water further along. I knew this wouldn’t be a nice experience as I had previously walked bare foot in this mud and ended up cutting my feet quite badly. We were in fact in a place called Oyster Bay which runs along the south side of Horsey Island. I only had a pair of trainers on and knew they would be sucked off my feet within a few steps so I had no option but to go bare feet. One of the most important kayak accessories to buy is a good pair of kayak boots especially if you are paddling in this type of terrain.
As soon as got out of my kayak I was knee deep in mud. Joel stayed in his kayak and I lay across the sterns of both boats and pushed us back to the island. As it was only around fifty yards back and most of my weight was spread across the kayaks luckily my feet did not sustain any cuts. Once back on the Island we began dragging the boats along the marshland. The perception kayaks are less than ten feet long and weigh less than forty pounds so pulling them along was not that difficult, well not to begin with!
As the tide goes out the Islands cliff banks are exposed. This makes spotting where the deep water is easier but of course harder to get into. From the marshland we could see that the tide had retreated much further than the channel we came in on. It would be impossible to re enter the channel from where we had hoped. There was no other option but to try and walk back until we either arrived back at the marina or found some deep water.
Walking back along the Island was far from easy. The ground was boggy and splintered by many creeks which in turn we had to jump (often ending in us going up to our knees in mud on the other side) and throw, drag and rope the kayaks across.
To make matters infinitely worse the sun was now setting and we were quickly running out of good light making jumping across the creeks even more hazardous.
We could see the masts of boats in the harbour in the distance but didn’t seem to be getting any closer. As we had planned only to have a quick paddle around the marina we were ill prepared for what was happening. I only had a short sleeved shirt on and with the Sun going down I was starting to feel the cold. In fact together with having little sleep the night before, the cold no food or water and dragging the kayaks for two miles I have to admit I was becoming worried about our predicament. Neither of us had a torch and so if we did not make it back before dark it would be extremely dangerous to cross the creeks without being able too see where we were jumping.
It felt like we were in a giant maze as we zig zagged back and forward trying to find the narrowest point at which to jump the creeks whilst at the same time 
maintain our general direction towards the harbour. We could not believe our luck that our short gentle paddle had turned into this. However if the truth is known it was nothing to do with luck but just down to our lack of respect for the tides, bad planning even if it was just a short journey and the failure to have the right kayak accessories with us.
We tried to keep each other motivated and although it was only about three miles back to the harbour it felt far more as we constantly had to back track to find better crossing points. We were racing against the Sun trying desperately to sustain momentum and not become too disheartened when our path was blocked by a creek that was too wide to leap across or get the kayaks over.
As the Sun started to drop behind the horizon we finally made it to a point where we could see deep water. The only thing in front of us was a mud beach. Although only about fifty yards wide we knew this was fresh and wet mud that would be a nightmare to go across. The beach was also quite steep. At that point in time we were so tired and desperate to get back into deep water we had to go for it.
We also had an idea. In view of the abrupt angle the beach slopped down to the water we knew we would have a good chance of making the water or at least getting a lot closer if we used our Perception kayaks as bobsleighs!
We both adopted a Thelma and Louise stance, held onto the cockpit combing and took a few steps back. “Ready? Go on three” Joel said as he nervously glanced across at me. “C’mon then” I mumbled back.
On the count of three we both ran towards the beach. I am not sure what happened to Joel on the way down but I did hear some whooping noises that sounded like he was having fun. As I reached the top of the beach I lunged forward and lay flat down on top of the kayak. I skidded at speed towards the bottom of the beach and just before I reached the waters edge I managed to steer the kayak sideways and get a leg out into the mud to stop myself plunging head first into the water. Wow! what a rush I never imagined I would ever be using my kayak as a bobsleigh! If I was twelve years old I would have dragged my boat back up the beach and bobsleighed down all day long, but I’m not and at thirty nine I should really know better.
As we got back into our kayaks the tiredness and worry seemed to melt away probably from the adrenaline of sliding down the beach or more likely because we had all but walked back to the marina which was now only a few hundred yards away. Covered in mud and clay we skulked under the cover of dusk back into the harbour hoping no one had seen our escapades.
As we paddled back to our pontoon a man sailing a yacht did comment on the state of us. All we could do was sheepishly smile back and nod with embarrassment.
Safely back at the marina but covered in mud I rang my wife who brought us some clean clothes, food and water together with a look and grin fitting for our humiliation.
I learnt some important lessons that day and list them in no particular order but to remind me and warn others that even the simplest and shortest kayak journeys need to be planned and prepared for.
1. When paddling at Sea or in tidal estuaries always know what the tide is doing and respect it accordingly.
2. First hand knowledge of an area is better than maps or aerial photographs. Before paddling off to pastures new try to get hold of as much local knowledge of an area from someone who has been there before. Ask your local kayak dealer what to look out for on a particular journey.
3. Be prepared. Always take essential kayak accessories with you together with food and drink.
4. Make sure you are dressed properly. If we had had proper boots instead of trainers we could have walked easily in the mud. And could have walked straight out into the channel when we first put in.
5. Take a detailed map with you.
6. Have spare warm clothes in a dry bag and back at your put in point to avoid having to ring smug wives.
7. Always have a plan agreed by you and you’re paddling buddy and stick to it as much as possible.
8. Take a good line. If we had had this we could have pulled the boats across the creeks a lot easier.
9. Have a dry bag with all your necessary kayak accessories pre packed and stowed on the boat so it is always with you even on short paddles.
10. NEVER! Go kayaking with a hangover; it’s just not worth it!
Horsey Island is an island in the Walton-on-the-naze backwaters in Essex, England.
It is mentioned by Swallows and Amazons author Arthur Ransome and Hamford Water at the top of Horsey Island is the setting for his eighth book, Secret Water.
Walton-on-the-Naze backwaters offer some of the most beautiful and picturesque scenery in the Essex county and with its many low lying islands and creeks it is an ideal location for kayaking. Although tidal, paddling in the many creeks is calm and effortless which makes it both safe and enjoyable for novice kayak and canoeist and also children.
The island is approximately eight or ten miles round and is predominantly covered in coastal and salt marsh plants including the extremely rare Hog’s Fennel. It has a few sandy beaches but mostly mudflats surround the island. The island itself forms part of a nature reserve and is home to many rare migrating and breeding birds such as Terns, Ringed Plover, Curlew, Dunlin, Pintail, Wigeon and Dark-bellied Brent Geese.
Only a few miles away and from where Hamford Water joins the sea the ports of Felixstowe and Harwich (one of Europe's largest and developing ports) can be seen.
Several fellow kayakers and I planned to paddle around Horsey Island stopping and camping overnight on one of its beaches. The kayaks being used for the journey were two inflatable kayaks, a sit on top kayak yak board and a Perception Sundance.
As the island could be paddled around in a matter of several hours we planned to set off on a Friday afternoon, set up camp halfway round the island and return the next morning. A 4.00pm departure time was agreed when the tide would be at its highest and would allow us to paddle our kayaks clockwise around the island. Kirby Creek at the southwest point would be inaccessible an hour or so before or after high tide so it was important we departed on time.
We were able to load most of our camping and kayak accessories on the two inflatable kayaks due to their size and ability to carry ample equipment. The perception kayak also offered plenty of cargo space. The sit on top kayak was only able to carry the bare essentials due to the very nature of sit on top kayaks.
Unfortunately we were unable to depart on time due to one of the group being held up and it was gone 5.30pm before we eventually got underway. Having missed the high tide and together with a strong current made it impossible to paddle westward towards Kirby Creek at that time of day. The change of plan was
agreed and we paddled off along the Walton Channel which leads directly into the North Sea.
Paddling along in the early evening summer sun was nothing short of glorious.
Read more on Kayaking Around Horsey Island Part I – Paddling Out…
We started our kayak journey from The Twizzle which is where the lovely Titchmarsh Marina is situated.
Paddling along the Walton Channel in an inflatable kayak fully laden with camping equipment and kayak accessories is hard going in tidal water.
The sit on top kayak being paddled by Matt was easier to paddle as it quite happily bounced off the waves. Joel’s Perception kayak was the easiest by far to paddle in these waters.
Approximately one third of the way round Horsey Island is a head of land called Stone Point. It has a charming sandy beach and is situated right at the point where the Walton Channel meets the sea. After paddling the kayaks for about an hour we had reached Stone Point which was our first resting point. We stopped for a quick bite to eat and a drink. At Stone Point you can clearly see the port of Harwich and just across the channel four or five disused and rusting barges have been deliberately run aground in an effort to, one assumes, act as tide breakers and sea defences. We stretched our legs for five minutes and walked round the head of stone point to take in the sea views.
At this point we were making very good progress and although it was 7:00pm there was plenty of light left in the day. We agreed to keep paddling around the island until 8.00pm and then stop wherever we were at that time and make a camp.
I got back into my inflatable kayak and started to paddle off with the rest of the group.
As we rounded the top of the island and into Hamford Water we were conscious of the need to stay as close as possible to the shore line in order to avoid any river traffic entering and exiting the channel.
This meant we had to paddle our way through the derelict barges and as the tide was well on its way out I was concerned my inflatable kayak may sustain a puncture on a piece of broken off metal. Thankfully all the kayaks zig zagged through the boats and both the inflatable kayaks were unscathed.
We had been paddling for some time along the Hamford Water which runs along the top of the island when we came to a fork. We could not be absolutely sure if this was the left side of Horsey Island leading to Kirby Creek or just a large creek cutting into the centre.
Our original plan was to paddle clockwise around the island so we would not have had to make this decision coming out of the creek if it was in fact the left side of Horsey Island. Up ahead the channel appeared to bear to the left after about a mile or so, indicating this also could be the correct way.
We stopped and braced our paddles across our kayaks while a debate ensued as to whether or not to continue ahead or turn off at the creek in the hope it would eventually take us back to the harbour.
I could remember there being a large creek on the aerial map I had studied beforehand but to be honest I was unsure if this was it. The decision was made to carry on ahead. We continued to paddle and as the sun hung low in the sky and it was now 8.00pm we started to look for a suitable place to camp.
As the tide was almost out it exposed mud banks about eight to ten feet high on both sides of the channel. There was no sign of anywhere suitable to stop and camp for the night. We continued to paddle.
From the aerial photographs we had viewed before our journey it showed Horsey Island to have many sandy beaches however we soon realised these were in fact mudflats ending in high mud banks and not golden sand. It would be impossible to climb and get my inflatable kayak up.
Read more on Kayaking Around Horsey Island Part II – Stone Point…
Having paddled our kayaks two thirds around Horsey Island situated in the Walton-on-the-Naze backwaters we were confident we would soon find a suitable place to land.
We paddled down Hamford Water not knowing that we had in fact missed our turning to go around the island back at the fork after Stone Point. Despite paddling further and further we could not spot a single place to portage. As it was nearly 9.00pm and the sun had dropped behind the horizon Hamford Water took on an ominous feel.
We were starting to feel lost, tired and hungry. My inflatable kayak was unforgiving and the weight of my camping and kayak accessories made paddling even harder. I had a five litre water bottle stuffed behind my kayak seat, a foot pump, tent, sleeping bag, food and so on, all of which were making the inflatable kayak drag heavily against the tidal water.
The banks along Hamford Water seemed to be getting higher or maybe it was just our moods getting lower. Having planned to pitch a camp long before sunset and travel back the next day, nobody had thought to bring a torch. This added to our worries as we were in a channel used by other boats. Still we pushed on looking for any nook or cranny where we could pull ourselves out.
As it was now getting quite dark and we were starting to become desperate one of the group tried to get out and climb the mud banks. He instantly sank up to his knees in the mud and knew that it would be impossible to get out and pull the kayaks up the banks.
We had no other option but to keep paddling. The channel seemed to go on and on until we eventually rounded a corner to find to our horror that the channel come to a dead end. It was evident we had simply been following a large creek inland and were now around the Beaumont Cut area.
We were extremely tired, hungry and stranded in this creek with the only option to either call the coast guard or attempt to paddle back to the beach at Stone Point. Although exhausted nobody wanted to call the coast guard so we wearily began to head back in the dark to Stone Point with the feint hope we had missed an exit point along the way.
It was now gone 9.00pm and we had a three or four mile paddle back to Stone Point ahead of us. Not much was spoken on this stretch and the two of us paddling the inflatable kayaks started to lag behind. At 10.00pm and what felt like hours had passed we started to see the silhouettes of the rusty barges in the distance. This uplifted out spirits but as hard as we paddled they never seemed to get any nearer.
We remembered there was a beach behind were the barges were moored which would be closer than Stone Point. After what seemed like an age the barges were now just a few hundred yards from us. It was taking all my strength every time I lowered my paddles into the water and my inflatable kayak seemed heavier than ever.
Read more on Kayaking Around Horsey Island Part III – Dead End…
Looking for a place to camp overnight on Horsey Island we were closing in on the rusty barges which are run aground in Hamford Water. Joel was up head and we could hear him cursing and as we reached him we could see why he was so upset. The sandy beach was there alright, but to get to it we would have to wade through five hundred yards or more of mud due to the tide now being completely out.
Before I knew it two of the guys from our group had already jumped out of their kayak seats and were knee deep in the mudflats and swearing liberally. I had not been that afraid for a long time and I remembered many stories of people being trapped in mud and stuck there until the tide came back in and they drowned.
I had a very bad feeling about the situation and knew the Walton backwaters were predominately marshland and mudflats. I tried to persuade the others that it was a bad idea and that we should call for help on our mobile phones. Before my appeal had even been considered everyone else had got out of their kayak seats and were taking their chances in the mud.
I was so tired and ached to get out of my inflatable kayak. A desperate need to just go for it took over me. I took a deep breath and leapt out of my kayak seat and sank immediately knee deep into cold, wet, martian like mud that surrounds Horsey Island. Within the first two steps I lost my trainers and was now wading barefoot. I was thankful only that it was so dark I could barely see where or what I was stepping on. What made progress through the mud infinitely worse was hauling my inflatable kayak weighed down with all my kit and paddles.
The two guys with the sit on top and the Perception kayak were moving marginally quicker due to these boats being significantly lighter. In the dark all I could hear was a royal amount of swearing as everyone tried to avoid falling over or plummeting too far into the foul-smelling mud.
It was impossible to take more than a few steps without collapsing on top of my inflatable kayak from exhaustion. I longed to just leave it there but I knew the tide would come back in soon and I would have no way of returning home. At one point I took a step forward and sank right up to my backside. At that split second I thought my luck had run out. I lunged backwards and grasped for my kayak. This scared me senseless as a few inches further and I would have been stuck and I doubt very much the others would have been able to pull me out.
I just wanted to be at home in my warm bed. Once I got my breath back I slowly and timidly stepped forward again. I could feel sharp pain in my feet and prayed it was just stones and shells I was stepping on and not broken parts of the rusting barges that we were passing uncomfortably close to.
I could just make out the shadow if Joel dragging the Perception kayak who was now a couple of hundred years up ahead. I shouted to him asking if he had made it to the beach yet and was dreadfully dismayed when he swore back that he hadn’t. I cursed my inflatable kayak that although filled with air still weighed a ton. This was by far one of the worst experience of my life and I could not understand how on earth an easy paddle around Horsey Island had ended up with this nightmare scenario.
Heads down and with gritted determination we finally made it to the beach. Covered in mud and entirely confused we looked in the dark for somewhere to pitch out tents. I could not believe that both Nicks and my inflatable kayak had survived the ordeal un-punctured which is a testament to their toughness and durability.
Read more on Kayaking Around Horsey Island Part IV – Walking On Mars…
After crossing the endless mudflats at the top of Horsey Island just beyond the beach at the crest of the mud, lay an area of firm grassland. It was gone 11.00pm and we set about putting up the tents as best we could in the dark. Thankfully it was a clear night without any wind and it didn’t take long to get the tents pitched.
Amongst our kayak accessories we had a portable stove and the sound of the kettle boiling started to cheer us up. We used most of the water we had brought along trying to clean the mud off ourselves but we made sure we left enough to make hot drinks.
Sitting in the openings of our tents and sipping a hot drink we even started to crack some jokes about what we had gone through, thinking that things could not get any worse. How wrong we were. Looking at the ground more closely and upon examining what we had thought to be grass turned out to be a seaweed type of plant. It quickly dawned on us that in the confusion and haste to get our tents pitched we had made camp on a flood plain.
We could not believe it but at the same time we were not prepared to set up camp anywhere else as it would be pointless anyway having absolutely no idea what area would be safe from flooding.
We decided to take our chances with myself and one of the other guys agreeing to stay awake as long as
possible and until after high tide which would not be until 4:50am. I tied my inflatable kayak to the tent to stop it floating away if we accidentally fell asleep and didn’t notice the tide come in, and used the kayak seat for a pillow.
I sat under the stars with Nick while the other members of the group slept. We drank tea to keep awake. At 3:00am we checked the camp perimeter. To the south and about 200 yards from the tents we could see the water flooding the plain. We couldn’t be sure from where it was coming from but most probably an inlet or creek.
We carried on checking every half an hour and at 4:30am the water was within fifty yards of the camp. We hoped it would not come any closer and upon checking again at 5:15am thankfully it was no nearer. I went back to my tent and collapsed.
I woke from my short sleep at around 7:30am. It was a glorious morning and the water had not reached our tents. My neck ached from sleeping on an inflatable kayak seat but I didn’t really notice because just about every other part of my body ached profusely.
In the light of the day we could see the many cuts and grazes to our feet we had sustained getting through the mud but I was mainly concerned with a rather deep 4 inch gash on the bottom of my right foot. I hadn’t noticed it last night, perhaps because it was packed in cold mud but now it started to throb with pain.
We had planned to have a hearty breakfast of bacon and eggs. This however was not possible as we were conscious we needed to get off Horsey Island before the tide went out again leaving us to deal with the mudflats once more.
Adding to our misery one of the group had lost his paddles when dragging his inflatable kayak through the mud. This meant we would either have to tow him or split one of the paddles in two and the rest of us take turns to paddle single bladed.
What should have been a relaxing paddle back to the marina took twice as long and involved a combination of towing and taking turns with single blades. Nobody really said much on the return journey, we simply wanted to get back home.
Once back at the marina we unpacked our kits and stowed the kayaks. Later that day I went to the hospital and for my troubles had a tetanus jab and six stitches in my right foot.
This was definitely an adventure but one I do not want to repeat in a hurry. My inflatable kayak stood up well to the test but that day I was glad to pack it back up in its bag for a while.
Read more on Kayaking Around Horsey Island Part V – Camping At Night…
